I was lucky enough to attend a lecture of Sergey
Surkov, a wonderful stylist and buyer of Sunday up Market (http://www.sundayupmarket.ru/). This is a pretty new place, which
concept is to sell clothes of Russian designers including young and fresh
start-up projects. It’s amazing how open-minded a person can be. He was totally
telling us all the secrets of How-Hard-It-Is-to-Be-a-Russian-Designer story as if
it was ok for us to know that super-pricey dresses by them are sold to each
other only cause they are all friends and will fight otherwise. Start-ups in
Russia are so expensive. I mean they are expensive anywhere and anyways, but literally
nothing is done to break the prejudice that the words Russia and fashion can’t stand
together. Registration costs a lot, transportation and production, wages and
PR. Fabric is actually the least part– may be 7 to 10 per cent of the final
cost. As to everything else – you should spend tons of money, time and effort
to find the cheapest options. A good and reasonable production is hard to find,
a place to put your collections so that they sell – even harder. Another
interesting thing about start-ups that Sergey was telling us about is,
surprisingly, team. For instance, a graphic designer – if he does an amazing
job – will make your new brand successful for years. Look at YSL or Nile
labels. Aren’t they awesome? These brands sell themselves, no matter what the
design concept is. Another option is to use your own name - it works well too. Sergey says there is no way you can set up a brand without a
good manager, an accountant and tons of connections. Fashion world is not that
big (even thou money-wise you wouldn’t say so) and everyone knows each other,
especially people attending fashion events. You should think twice before
starting on your own.
Every brand to be created must have a story, a concept,
an idea. Look at Alena Akhmadullina -she chose the brilliant idea of
fairy-tales, which will totally last forever and make her brand successful.
Thnx to my wonderful Irina S. for invitation.
Thnx to Sergey
Surkov for a wonderful and inspiring evening! High time to create!